Colombo

My morning walks give me a chance to meet the dog community of the Galle Road in what I call the Manhattan stretch. (Kollupitiya to the Kingsbury)

I don’t know their names, but I get to chat with a few. Some days I count over twenty-five of them as they hang about waiting for breakfast and “meals on wheels” I hear charities fund the cost of feeding them.

Some dogs look as though they’ve been partying all night and make no effort to say good morning. Many have their spots to sleep and rest, some in the middle of junctions and on zebra crossings.

I have only one thing against these street urban dog dwellers, and that is the random pavement poo, which street cleaners cover with sand so us humans can avoid the mess.

I’m not sure dogs have multiple morning locations for breakfast when these good-hearted humans come to feed and water them. How sustainable this humanitarian activity can be is another matter.

The dogs in the main look healthy, some have taken a bash from cars. I’ve seen some chase bike riders. Maybe avenging previous encounters. The bikers who slow down to converse do so at their own risk. Some of the dogs have collars and dog tags, and many looks related to each other. Sometimes I see the bitches hiding from the male dogs or trying to avoid being chased.

In thirteen years of walking the Galle Road, I’ve never met an aggressive dog, some are chattier than others. There are big signs up saying “no dogs” on the Galle Face Green. Daily, the Sri Lankan army troops come on to the green to exercise. They don’t want to be rolling in poo. The dogs however will have their gatherings there in the very early morning when the human master race is asleep. For dog owners in this area who wish to walk their dogs, there are not many options. I see a few with a dog on a lead also carrying a stick and a poo bag.

I’m thinking of going out with the street dogs late one night to see what they get up to.

Whilst these dogs are living in Colombo Two, I see many in the other outer suburbs struggling, underfed and neglected. Their owners in many cases are also struggling with the increasing cost of living. There are a number of organizations that are running programs to help these dogs. E.g. feeding, foster and adoption, vaccination and sterilization programmes.

Estimate numbers of stray dogs in Sri Lanka vary, some hyped by government personnel, but generally it’s estimated there are two and a half million of them. A colleague some years ago from India was at an event I was holding in an up-end hotel down south. I was asked by the Indian if the beach dogs bite, and I said, “don’t know, but don’t go to the beach alone”. A stray beach dog came up onto the hotel pool deck and bit the chap. Every dog has its day. Very upsetting, and the victim had to go off for rabies jab. Today, the rabies jab can cost more than 60,000 rupees.

So, if like me, you talk to the dogs whilst out walking, you have to know your patch.

26th of August was International Dog Day!

It’s nine o’clock in the morning and there are no regulars dropping in. There is a young couple sitting next to me making love to their coffee and tea. (Thank you, Billy Joel)

It’s morning time and for a change I’m having my morning coffee in the Shangri-La Sapphyr Lounge. I’m sharing the place, some seventy plus seats, with initially one family of four. Then joined by a couple who sit at the next table to me and use their phone excessively. I can tell you their plans for the day and the weeks ahead. Given over 60 chairs are empty, why are we all sitting in the same area? Well, there are two reasons, the view of the sea and the massively developing Port City. The staff are some 60ft away at their service desk. They let you choose your own seat and then make contact. The staff are very polite, but all can do with some physical exercise. There must have allocated jobs amongst the staff, the table on the other side of me by the window and view is not cleared or cleaned for thirty minutes. This is done by the only male member of staff, who looks like he has just come on duty.

The coffee and the cookies are excellent, it’s better value than my normal Delifrance with little service, no view and no tasty free cookie.

A well-dressed elegant European lady joins the light gathering, later she is met by an aging European looking chap with an iPad, he speaks loudly, and I gather his flight was over 12 hours late. Flew Usually Late UL, no doubt.

I do wish Shangri-La would open their coffee shop facing the mall way before eleven am. It would become my morning coffee stop.  The Central Café in the Shang Hotel is a Bewelleys green Irish coffee shop look alike. It provides service, an extensive menu and good product. Sadly, I can’t wait till nearly midday for my first coffee. By midday, like many other people, it’s too late for a good coffee.

We went to the Port City the other night to Bellevue Beach Club, it’s the only quality haven along the water front you will find. A couple and their son, from France, have opened this very stylish club waterfront restaurant. On an upper floor there is a great private party location.

It’s a smaller version of Potato Head Beach Club or KU DE TA in Bali. These locations however have all day dining, breakfast to supper. You can start at eight, and you can finish at two or later.

Bellevue hasn’t got there yet, as it is experimenting with opening hours at the moment. Worth ringing if you want to go during the day.

The first chairs on the water front are a bit over designed and not so comfortable, we tried some others but ended up at a classic table as we all wanted to dine. For us, the whole night out was value for money, but for some people it would be considered a bit expensive. So in these early days, the team are checking on who is dropping in just to look. Some sit and just order a beer.

All striking cuisine cooked in a different way to what’s around in Colombo. Great prawns, meat skewers, unusual flavours.

Two of us got a thin pizza with a topping of lightly cooked vegetables, including my favourites, mushrooms and aubergines. The others had burgers, which they thought were full of flavours. The new French chef came out, as did the owner, to get our feedback. Lucky, we had a French speaker in our group to interact.

At 10 o’clock, we still have not finished our meal and are four out of twelve people in the whole place. The disco music has been pumped up. They are never going to get the big dancing crowd on a night before eleven pm. Each of us were shouting to have a conversation. The management turns down the volume. Hopefully they will understand dinners don’t want load music.

This French designed and operated waterfront white club style venue is a great addition, so I’m sure Bellevue Beach Club will do well.

Masses of space and seating options, plenty of staff and an exciting venue with some new style in Sri Lanka.

We will return.

It’s been about twenty years since I’ve been to the notorious 80 Club. Now I’m returning with good friends, with one whose gran was a long-standing president of the club.

Located in the prime location of Independence Avenue and founded in 1939, this was one of the most prestigious clubs in Colombo at its peak. Initially and ironically, it was first founded in Kandy during British Colonial rule. The story goes that a group of people met in the Queens hotel in room 80, so they called their newfound club the 80.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 258:

“Sometimes a new brand name could come out of a simple situation.”

Some of my own experiences with branding have stuck with me. While working with Lord Forte, his son wanted to change the name of the group ‘Trusthouse Forte’, which was perceived in some countries to be a banking company and not a chain of hotels. He commissioned a top branding company to do a detailed survey of the business, its staff and its customers. On completion of the survey, the branding company presented their findings to the board. Their proposal was to call the business ‘Forte’. The charge for all this work, 34 years ago was 360k pounds. Some years later the son of Lord Forte sold the business but one condition made by the purchaser was that Mr Forte could not use the Forte brand, even though it was his name. Within about a year he opened his first new luxury hotel and called it 4ORTE.

So, the grand 80 Club building is on two floors of about a total of 14,200 sq feet. (One can’t use meters when talking about this place or era) It had tennis courts and a massive lawn in front and was the club to be in and to be seen at. It had many glorious decades. At some point the club started to get into debt with also falling active members. The appeal was wavering and debts mounted after the lease expired in 1978. The club carried on as the land was on a short lease from the government but they were not dealing with the drifting situation.

In 2020, the Urban Development Authority took over and had a vision of recreating the old club. Some years ago the navy started restoring many colonial properties in Colombo, the 80 Club was also added to the list. The old lady got more than a lick of paint. The exterior of the club is still sitting at the back of a massive lawn and certainly looks to be in good shape from the outside. There is the classic oversupply of lighting on the exterior of the building which is quite badly positioned, it’s impossible to take a good photo at night.

Six of us meet at 7.30 and get a great welcome from the staff and a friendly manager. He and I talk about South Africa both having lived there. One in our group has brought his large music box with a loudspeaker system. There is not a single other customer in the place so we pump up the volume on the lawn…bizarre to be the only ones there and have all the staff looking after us. So the old club gets back to its glory days as we sing and dance. The excellent “bites” arrive and we sit around the table on the lawn.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 259:

“Always pick a few words used by the locals when you travel, always nice to refer to them with others.”

I’d never heard of “bites” till I came to Sri Lanka and neither had I heard of “shape” (Which means “it’s okay”.) or even the word “thrice”. The famous song was not “your once, twice and thrice times a lady”.

In New Zealand, if you read my first book which included a story on the wine experience, a man said to us ‘if you all sit on my dick (deck) we will have some wine”. Another phrase I heard in India, “I know where your house lives”.

My opening line on this story of the 80 Club is that my last visit was about twenty years ago. I had arrived from the UK having represented my UK PLC company in the purchase of Orient Lanka, a local duty-free company with a small domestic liquor distribution arm. This company sponsored the new bar in the 80 Club. Mohan, our local manager asked me to come with him to the club. As we arrive he says to me, “Boss, you will need to make a speech at this bar opening.”

“Good way of testing a new boss” – I’m thinking.

When you are the son of a preacher man these opportunities are quite enjoyable, this was one of my many speeches in Sri Lanka.

The new interior of the club has sadly killed the old club look and the colours and the furniture is what Jezzabel calls “new rich”. The bar is still in the same place which has poor access and limited seating. The newness takes away the colonial look and feel e.g. there is a tv in the dining room, if essential hide it behind a sliding panel.

I hear there is also a chance that the UDA is considering putting in a pool and some bedrooms and converting the place into a hotel. Before they do that let’s hope they look at the current interior decor and dining experience. They could also look at some changes and additions e.g. Better location for the bar, putting an old car outside as a photo opportunity, reducing exterior lighting, conducting small weddings there, putting some old photos of the location, etc.

They may also consider how many hotels the government currently owns, one of which has not yet opened after ten years, two that need refits and the fact that governments should not own or operate such establishments. Their job is to govern the country well.

The night rolls on and I’m sure it will be in the memories of the six of us as a bizarre event in an amazing setting. Sadly, what we all want to forget is the main food courses, the meat was stringy at best and nobody enjoyed the main meal. Perhaps it’s one of those places you have drinks and ‘bites’ and then move out to a restaurant somewhere else. On that basis only would I go back.

Over the last few decades, I’ve attempted access to this church about six times. On google maps, it says closing at 4 pm. This time I’ve cracked it. With my driver Lucky we visit the church and find all three gates are chained up. It’s 3.30 pm. I’m getting frustrated. After closer investigation, Lucky establishes that one entrance has a chain around its two gates. He pulls on the chain to find there is no padlock.

We are in!

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 266:

“Never underestimate people around you, find out what they are good at.”

We are in the churchyard but there is nobody about, although there are lots of tombstones and bodies well decomposed no doubt.

I’m shouting “hello! hello!”

Ultimately a chap comes out of what I assume is the caretaker’s little house. Looks like he has just gotten out of the shower but has shorts on… Thank God.

This church in Pettah was built in 1757, the first Protestant church on the island. I’m told its name comes from wolfs in the dale. There were no wolfs, just wild dogs. The Dutch Reform Church was founded by the VOC, i.e the Dutch East India Company. The hill site was previously the site of a Portuguese Church but was destroyed by the Dutch.

“Thought we were all Christians”

We get into the church and the sight is quite amazing, with a dominating carved wooden pulpit, but there is no altar. Wall plaques are everywhere and 37 tombstones form part of the floor, some are ornately carved and are 4 feet by 6 feet. This is a big church shaped like a plus sign and a footprint and is 100 feet high at its highest. A thousand of people can gather in this church. The walls they say are 5 feet thick.

Plastered around the walls are numerous plaques. One section is dedicated to all the reverends who served in the church over the centuries. The elite of this city who belonged to the church back in the day are buried here as well, some being Dutch Governors of Ceylon.

It’s likely one of the oldest churches still having regular services on the island and with an active congregation. They have services in three languages.

As we finish our amazing tour we step out to check out the graves and tombstones outside, many along the church walls but no sign of a crypt.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 277: 

Visit someplace you haven’t been to or do something different every day. At worst read an article on a new subject.

I’m planning to go back and participate in the 10.30 am Sunday service. Not sure I will get Jezzabel there, she says she is a free thinker, perhaps a non-believer.

This church is one of the many religious buildings in Pettah, and we managed to visit another 5 this week. More scriptures from the Pome to follow!

For years now our favourite Japanese restaurant in Colombo has been Zen just at the end of Rosmead Place. That view is unlikely to change in the foreseeable future. What makes it the best for us can be summed up in one sentence.

“Great food, service and environment at acceptable pricing while always being consistent and having BYOB.”

Zylan opened in Dec 2011. Originally it was a boutique hotel with 10 rooms. The Zen Japanese restaurant has been operating since end of 2014, creating an oasis in the heart of the city where the hotel guests and diners can feel pampered and chilled. It’s a different experience from staying/ dining at big hotels.

So, we are here again, with our guide as always, “Sunil the jacket”.

Seven of us sit on roof terrace amongst the trees with a whispering light breeze creating a magic temperature. We always prefer the bar terrace though you can go up to another level but that’s for romantic couples. There are less than ten tables on our favourite terrace and if like us you are a big group worth booking well ahead. A large group on the top terrace is too tight.

When we go, we normally ask the manager to select the dishes and he always adds something new and keeps it flowing. Today however, is Sunil’s choice,

Starter

• Prawn tempura
• Gyoza chicken 
• Tuna and salmon sashimi

Makis

• Volcano salmon
• Zen Signature Maki Assortment

Salads

• Wakame seaweed – A new dish for me and very succulent

Mains

• Garlic fried rice
• Chicken teriyaki – Not sure this is the house speciality but it’s always on our list when we visit
• Chili crab meat and prawn don
• Stir Fried Mix vegetables

We delight our taste buds as the plates roll through the night. At 12,000 per couple, it’s great value and the service is exceptional.

The building also gives you that zen feel with a walkway that takes you to infinity and back (mirror at the end) the open white style hotel is relaxing to the eye, comforting to the mind and easy to navigate. Though we normally walk up a long staircase with three doggy last steps my advice to most people, especially when leaving the roof top delight under the influence of booze … is TAKE THE LIFT.

The first time we visited this restaurant we ordered an excessive amount of duck and got a hefty bill. We were seated by the entrance where people were passing, watching us eat. We had a bit of a barney with the manager. She left the company a short while later.

Three years on and we go back.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule 277:

“Always give a restaurant a second chance. It could become a favourite.”

We arrive on this second visit at 9 PM and head out after a tasty meal by 10 PM. Quick Service. There is only one other table occupied which is next to us. This is separated by a curtain but we can hear those on the other side of it, talking quite loudly. If you have only a few tables occupied in your restaurant, why sit two groups adjacent to each other? The lighting above is excessive and over-designed.

Highlights

We order seven dishes. The steamed pork bun makes an excellent starter, and the eggplant is tasty and juicy. The main dishes include a seafood rice dish and a fine shrimp noodle, both are great and in ample quantities.

The noise from our neighbours and the loud aircon are not enough to detract us from an excellent meal at 13,738 rupees, or 40$ – for four people which is great value! If we had ordered wine the meal would be 50 % more. My suggestion to Softlogic (the franchise holder for Crystal Jade in Sri Lanka) is they adopt a BYOB (Bring your own bottle) proactive approach on wine for this restaurant and any others they manage.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 252: 

“Restaurants run by accountants normally have excessive mark ups on wine, to create change drink beer or tell the manager about BYOB.”

We will revisit again and perhaps go to a movie; when the next tom cruise movie is now showing here at One Galle Face Mall.

My experience of Thai food has been very limited in Sri Lanka, no doubt loads of you are now going to send me lists of your favorite Thai food joints. (Please do!) I used to enjoy the ‘Royal Thai at Cinnamon Lakeside’, but they changed the menu, so we stopped going years ago.

Tonight, we park outside the ‘Dao Krua Thai’ restaurant, as we would say in England, “it’s got more frontage than a Marks and Spencer”.

The restaurant has an eclectic feel as you walk in. There is an old cart, a fiberglass boat, spoked wheeled cart, Thai statue, an old bike and lots of other memorabilia. A scattering of tables, then a big garden area and some tables down one side under cover. We are on time and assume the rest of the gang will not be there but they all are.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 249: “Hardly ever assume your friend will be on time, unless they are special.”

Sunil of jacket fame is not wearing a jacket tonight as shorts and casual are more in keeping in the outdoors. Yet again the maestro is doing one of his special dinners, he rolls out different individual plates of food we all share. Tonight, we have 13 dishes, flowing BYOB wine and great company. Or BYOG, as the Aussies say, Grog is the additional word meaning booze.

Dao, the chef and owner of the restaurant is known to us all. A Thai lady who came to Sri Lanka 19 years ago and started by preparing Thai meals at people’s homes, then she opened an authentic Thai restaurant. A few years ago, she started Dao Krua Thai, where we are gathered tonight. We meander through 13 dishes, starting with four starters.

Garlic cuttlefish and spring rolls are okay whilst the chicken satay and the omelette raise the bar. Salads follow and we all love the papaya salad. This is followed by two prawn dishes including a wild tamarind prawn dish. I’m a mushroom nut and the Bok choy with mushroom was scrumptious. Then comes two lots of chicken, one with basil. We try two fish dishes but the Black pepper panga fish was the star.

Throughout the meal we have been treated with prawn pad Thai and Thai egg fried rice. When the bill comes, we are confused as it is just such great value. This is a BYO (wine) restaurant and the meal price for the two of us is 11000 rupees, for so much food.

So, it’s been a great night with close friends and a passionate chef who likes to chat with every one of her guests. We pile into a big BMW and the music starts with themes from great movies some with country and western background. The debate has started regarding our next venue and we are focusing on Japanese. Sunil “The Jacket” recommends the date and the place. It’s not going to be an American themed restaurant, do they have any in the USA, perhaps Steak Houses only.

Just across the bridge in what some people think is “never-never land”; i.e. the Port City Colombo, there are people who have dreams, aspirations and a vision. One such person is Ineke. I have known her for twenty years, for many on the island she is known as the “horse lady”. She has lots of passion for horses and brings joy to so many people including more than 400 kids whilst running her Horse-Riding Stables, Ceylon Riding Club out near Piliyandala. Ineke has taken the big step to bringing all her energy and business acumen to set up and run the Ceylon Riding Club at Port City on a plot of three and a half acres of land close to the sea and the beach with an amazing breeze. Today there is a large shed and no horses; but soon she will have a full-blown equestrian centre with an array of horses. The site will have experienced professionals to give the club members and guests a true international horse experience. There will be a coffee shop and at some point in the future, a restaurant, bar and a members’ club.

The concept was unveiled to a delight crowd in early July and the ceremony was attended by many friends, current and future riders, customers and some dignitaries, these included but not limited to Dr Sinharaja T.D., who’s a renowned writer, historian and award-winning film Director, Mrs. Charu Thewathantri, who’s a Gratien Prize winning author and parent of horse-riders, Dr Ananda is Director of IUCN and Mr. Damith Pallewatte, the Deputy General Manager, HNB.

There were some special guests including Nigel Austin, (Previously Racehorse owner) Amanda Abeyweera, (Horse Breeder) Nihara Jayathilake, (Previous RTC President) Suranji Jayakodi, (Race horse owner) Rashmin Tirimanne de Silva, (Showjumper) Archi Jagdeesh, (Show jumper and Instructor) Keith Brown, (Show jumper, instructor and horse trainer) plus a big contingent from loyal members and friends of CRC.

The Monarch Group meets up for an evening at Sugar Bistro, Crescat Shopping Mall. The deck, or as they say in New Zealand the “dick” has a lovely bar and we have a breezy night to catch up and share our stories since we last met. Golden rule ……we don’t want to spend the night whinging about the state of the country and who is responsible for the major crisis. The wine flows and we have a whole raft of bites. The smartly dressed staff hover but are not intrusive, just there when you want something. A young man plays guitar and sings an array of songs from the latest hits, movies to the seventies. As with all Monarch group get togethers, some of the team have a bit of a sing along.

So, the night of chatter and music rolls on with some great canapés and bites. The chicken pâté is outstanding and reminds me of when I used to cook back in the UK. My favourite starter was chicken pate, flavored with whisky or brandy and I’m sure ‘Sugar’ dropped some alcohol in this tasty snack. It’s late but the good news is the Monarch crowd are only a three-minute walk to their apartment entrance. With no likely chance of a tuk tuk or taxi in these petrol starved days, Jezzabel and I stretch our legs and anticipate a fourteen-minute walk to our new home opposite the Port City.

The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 248:

“Great nights out are on your doorstep, in walking distance, leave the car and stress at home”

https://www.facebook.com/sugarbistroandwinebar