If you are someone who goes to Victoria/ Digana from Kandy, I hope you have noticed the little picturesque blue church. It’s opposite the Earl’s Regency Hotel, just over the bridge crossing Mahaweli River. On four occasions we have driven to the gates at the front of the amazing little church, but the gate has always been locked. This time Amresh says the notice says “access at the rear”. He is a good Kandy St Thomas boy of the 1970s, quite bright in those days.
Down a few alleyways we arrive at the church complex with a school, houses and walk to find we are the back of the blue church.
The church looks old from a distance, on checking it out we find it was opened in the 1950s.
Back in 1917 in a place called Fatima in Portugal three children of local farmers met Fatima or as we would call her “Mary the mother of Christ”. Mary visiting the place and the children has become of religious importance. A small basilica was built on the site and it became a Christian sanctuary.
There are a number of plaques around the blue church of Kandy. On closer investigation it is a simply built church on the Fatima church design, but in a commanding location next to the river.
Join me on the road around Sri Lanka 🇱🇰 The Whinging Pome
My morning walks give me a chance to meet the dog community of the Galle Road in what I call the Manhattan stretch. (Kollupitiya to the Kingsbury)
I don’t know their names, but I get to chat with a few. Some days I count over twenty-five of them as they hang about waiting for breakfast and “meals on wheels” I hear charities fund the cost of feeding them.
Some dogs look as though they’ve been partying all night and make no effort to say good morning. Many have their spots to sleep and rest, some in the middle of junctions and on zebra crossings.
I have only one thing against these street urban dog dwellers, and that is the random pavement poo, which street cleaners cover with sand so us humans can avoid the mess.
I’m not sure dogs have multiple morning locations for breakfast when these good-hearted humans come to feed and water them. How sustainable this humanitarian activity can be is another matter.
The dogs in the main look healthy, some have taken a bash from cars. I’ve seen some chase bike riders. Maybe avenging previous encounters. The bikers who slow down to converse do so at their own risk. Some of the dogs have collars and dog tags, and many looks related to each other. Sometimes I see the bitches hiding from the male dogs or trying to avoid being chased.
In thirteen years of walking the Galle Road, I’ve never met an aggressive dog, some are chattier than others. There are big signs up saying “no dogs” on the Galle Face Green. Daily, the Sri Lankan army troops come on to the green to exercise. They don’t want to be rolling in poo. The dogs however will have their gatherings there in the very early morning when the human master race is asleep. For dog owners in this area who wish to walk their dogs, there are not many options. I see a few with a dog on a lead also carrying a stick and a poo bag.
I’m thinking of going out with the street dogs late one night to see what they get up to.
Whilst these dogs are living in Colombo Two, I see many in the other outer suburbs struggling, underfed and neglected. Their owners in many cases are also struggling with the increasing cost of living. There are a number of organizations that are running programs to help these dogs. E.g. feeding, foster and adoption, vaccination and sterilization programmes.
Estimate numbers of stray dogs in Sri Lanka vary, some hyped by government personnel, but generally it’s estimated there are two and a half million of them. A colleague some years ago from India was at an event I was holding in an up-end hotel down south. I was asked by the Indian if the beach dogs bite, and I said, “don’t know, but don’t go to the beach alone”. A stray beach dog came up onto the hotel pool deck and bit the chap. Every dog has its day. Very upsetting, and the victim had to go off for rabies jab. Today, the rabies jab can cost more than 60,000 rupees.
So, if like me, you talk to the dogs whilst out walking, you have to know your patch.
The Fortress Hotel in Kogala first opened in 2007, having being stalled during foundation work by the tsunami. It was and is a five-star hotel, and we were regular visitors in those early days when two amazing Australian managers ran the establishment, there was some empathy and fun with Jezzabel.
We are on the road again, this time on the expressway, not the coastal Galle road from Colombo. Arriving at the fortress hotel, four minutes from Koggala and thirty minutes from Galle.
It’s that wow factor on arrival, the Dutch columns and the sea view across the large pool. Then we meet three staff members who we remember from the early days.
The building with fifty-three bedrooms and two restaurants has a fort look, but ironically once inside it is very open and well-designed.
The unusual three connected pools are visibly very attractive, large and well located. It is a bit difficult to do serious swimming as there are curved walls, dark visibility and some areas of excessive and changing depths. Stronger signs are much needed at this pool.
We have enjoyed many excursions locally, Koggala Lake out on a boat and meeting cinnamon growers. There are many links to WW2 and the British. These include the military airport where a number of Catalina seaplanes were based, flying to Singapore and beyond. There was also a short air strip with 800 people were on the base at the time. At the end of the runway close to the sea there is what is called an “aviation museum”. It’s actually a small post-war prop plane you can go into.
In season the area has surfers and lots of sun/ beach budget tourist mainly on package holiday.
I’m a big coffee fan and try to push companies to use local Sri Lankan coffee. Fortress is using Italian Molinari coffee. I would urge them to use high quality local coffee.
The Fortress bedrooms are well-equipped with big TV’s, nice balcony, comfy large beds with a large bath and a jacuzzi. There is a massage facility, but we were only on a short stay.
I walked on the local beach to see many old style hotels closed as it’s out of season. There is also much evidence of sea erosion. Koggala Beach hotel is in a prime location but with most of its land frontage lost to the sea, it is $40 a night B&B and most people I met there were middle-aged Dutch folk. There is monsoon rain and wind with frequent warnings, not to swim in the sea.
With an excellent location, Fortress is also next to Ahangama, the up-and-coming nightlife place on this coast. In front of the hotel you can see the “stilt fishermen”, they sit over the sea on sticks with basic fishing rods. I don’t think they catch much, but if you take a photo of them, a local will pop up and demand money. This area is renowned for both activities.
So on our third day we sadly have to return home having had a chilled, pampered break at the Fortress.
It’s nine o’clock in the morning and there are no regulars dropping in. There is a young couple sitting next to me making love to their coffee and tea. (Thank you, Billy Joel)
It’s morning time and for a change I’m having my morning coffee in the Shangri-La Sapphyr Lounge. I’m sharing the place, some seventy plus seats, with initially one family of four. Then joined by a couple who sit at the next table to me and use their phone excessively. I can tell you their plans for the day and the weeks ahead. Given over 60 chairs are empty, why are we all sitting in the same area? Well, there are two reasons, the view of the sea and the massively developing Port City. The staff are some 60ft away at their service desk. They let you choose your own seat and then make contact. The staff are very polite, but all can do with some physical exercise. There must have allocated jobs amongst the staff, the table on the other side of me by the window and view is not cleared or cleaned for thirty minutes. This is done by the only male member of staff, who looks like he has just come on duty.
The coffee and the cookies are excellent, it’s better value than my normal Delifrance with little service, no view and no tasty free cookie.
A well-dressed elegant European lady joins the light gathering, later she is met by an aging European looking chap with an iPad, he speaks loudly, and I gather his flight was over 12 hours late. Flew Usually Late UL, no doubt.
I do wish Shangri-La would open their coffee shop facing the mall way before eleven am. It would become my morning coffee stop. The Central Café in the Shang Hotel is a Bewelleys green Irish coffee shop look alike. It provides service, an extensive menu and good product. Sadly, I can’t wait till nearly midday for my first coffee. By midday, like many other people, it’s too late for a good coffee.
We went to the Port City the other night to Bellevue Beach Club, it’s the only quality haven along the water front you will find. A couple and their son, from France, have opened this very stylish club waterfront restaurant. On an upper floor there is a great private party location.
It’s a smaller version of Potato Head Beach Club or KU DE TA in Bali. These locations however have all day dining, breakfast to supper. You can start at eight, and you can finish at two or later.
Bellevue hasn’t got there yet, as it is experimenting with opening hours at the moment. Worth ringing if you want to go during the day.
The first chairs on the water front are a bit over designed and not so comfortable, we tried some others but ended up at a classic table as we all wanted to dine. For us, the whole night out was value for money, but for some people it would be considered a bit expensive. So in these early days, the team are checking on who is dropping in just to look. Some sit and just order a beer.
All striking cuisine cooked in a different way to what’s around in Colombo. Great prawns, meat skewers, unusual flavours.
Two of us got a thin pizza with a topping of lightly cooked vegetables, including my favourites, mushrooms and aubergines. The others had burgers, which they thought were full of flavours. The new French chef came out, as did the owner, to get our feedback. Lucky, we had a French speaker in our group to interact.
At 10 o’clock, we still have not finished our meal and are four out of twelve people in the whole place. The disco music has been pumped up. They are never going to get the big dancing crowd on a night before eleven pm. Each of us were shouting to have a conversation. The management turns down the volume. Hopefully they will understand dinners don’t want load music.
This French designed and operated waterfront white club style venue is a great addition, so I’m sure Bellevue Beach Club will do well.
Masses of space and seating options, plenty of staff and an exciting venue with some new style in Sri Lanka.
I recently booked to see a skin specialist and paid the rate in advance to an online doctor booking site. [eChannelling] They asked me for a passport copy. Why! I sent a copy anyway.
Arrival at the clinic and I’m told to take a seat the doctor has not arrived. (Standard practice in Sri Lanka) Ten minutes later the staff say I can’t see the doctor unless I pay another Rs. 1500 rupees as I’m a foreigner.
They have a copy of my passport (British) and my name (British) So when did they decide I needed to pay more, could it be when they saw I am white? Obviously, the online booking agent is going to have standard pricing. i.e. the same price for everyone. So, I suspect the doctor is discriminating against them once the foreign patients arrive at the clinic.
Blatant discrimination. So, I decided to take a video of the incident and suddenly the owner of the clinic decides to get involved. He shouts at me, “It’s illegal for you to be videoing here. I see no sign saying “No photography”.
I asked the owner if he was aware there is discrimination going on. His response is he does not control the doctors who practice in his establishment or how they charge.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule 286: “If you own it and charge people to use it, you need to take responsibility, not abdicate.”
So, if you get this sort of treatment here in Sri Lanka, blacklist the location/organization, tell your friends and report incidents to the Pricing Watchdog and Office of Fair Trading. Not sure if the last two organizations exist in Sri Lanka. I appreciate your feedback and experiences. Let’s not criticize the discrimination practice by government organizations; they don’t like it, it’s just not “cricket” old chap.
It’s been about twenty years since I’ve been to the notorious 80 Club. Now I’m returning with good friends, with one whose gran was a long-standing president of the club.
Located in the prime location of Independence Avenue and founded in 1939, this was one of the most prestigious clubs in Colombo at its peak. Initially and ironically, it was first founded in Kandy during British Colonial rule. The story goes that a group of people met in the Queens hotel in room 80, so they called their newfound club the 80.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 258:
“Sometimes a new brand name could come out of a simple situation.”
Some of my own experiences with branding have stuck with me. While working with Lord Forte, his son wanted to change the name of the group ‘Trusthouse Forte’, which was perceived in some countries to be a banking company and not a chain of hotels. He commissioned a top branding company to do a detailed survey of the business, its staff and its customers. On completion of the survey, the branding company presented their findings to the board. Their proposal was to call the business ‘Forte’. The charge for all this work, 34 years ago was 360k pounds. Some years later the son of Lord Forte sold the business but one condition made by the purchaser was that Mr Forte could not use the Forte brand, even though it was his name. Within about a year he opened his first new luxury hotel and called it 4ORTE.
So, the grand 80 Club building is on two floors of about a total of 14,200 sq feet. (One can’t use meters when talking about this place or era) It had tennis courts and a massive lawn in front and was the club to be in and to be seen at. It had many glorious decades. At some point the club started to get into debt with also falling active members. The appeal was wavering and debts mounted after the lease expired in 1978. The club carried on as the land was on a short lease from the government but they were not dealing with the drifting situation.
In 2020, the Urban Development Authority took over and had a vision of recreating the old club. Some years ago the navy started restoring many colonial properties in Colombo, the 80 Club was also added to the list. The old lady got more than a lick of paint. The exterior of the club is still sitting at the back of a massive lawn and certainly looks to be in good shape from the outside. There is the classic oversupply of lighting on the exterior of the building which is quite badly positioned, it’s impossible to take a good photo at night.
Six of us meet at 7.30 and get a great welcome from the staff and a friendly manager. He and I talk about South Africa both having lived there. One in our group has brought his large music box with a loudspeaker system. There is not a single other customer in the place so we pump up the volume on the lawn…bizarre to be the only ones there and have all the staff looking after us. So the old club gets back to its glory days as we sing and dance. The excellent “bites” arrive and we sit around the table on the lawn.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 259:
“Always pick a few words used by the locals when you travel, always nice to refer to them with others.”
I’d never heard of “bites” till I came to Sri Lanka and neither had I heard of “shape” (Which means “it’s okay”.) or even the word “thrice”. The famous song was not “your once, twice and thrice times a lady”.
In New Zealand, if you read my first book which included a story on the wine experience, a man said to us ‘if you all sit on my dick (deck) we will have some wine”. Another phrase I heard in India, “I know where your house lives”.
My opening line on this story of the 80 Club is that my last visit was about twenty years ago. I had arrived from the UK having represented my UK PLC company in the purchase of Orient Lanka, a local duty-free company with a small domestic liquor distribution arm. This company sponsored the new bar in the 80 Club. Mohan, our local manager asked me to come with him to the club. As we arrive he says to me, “Boss, you will need to make a speech at this bar opening.”
“Good way of testing a new boss” – I’m thinking.
When you are the son of a preacher man these opportunities are quite enjoyable, this was one of my many speeches in Sri Lanka.
The new interior of the club has sadly killed the old club look and the colours and the furniture is what Jezzabel calls “new rich”. The bar is still in the same place which has poor access and limited seating. The newness takes away the colonial look and feel e.g. there is a tv in the dining room, if essential hide it behind a sliding panel.
I hear there is also a chance that the UDA is considering putting in a pool and some bedrooms and converting the place into a hotel. Before they do that let’s hope they look at the current interior decor and dining experience. They could also look at some changes and additions e.g. Better location for the bar, putting an old car outside as a photo opportunity, reducing exterior lighting, conducting small weddings there, putting some old photos of the location, etc.
They may also consider how many hotels the government currently owns, one of which has not yet opened after ten years, two that need refits and the fact that governments should not own or operate such establishments. Their job is to govern the country well.
The night rolls on and I’m sure it will be in the memories of the six of us as a bizarre event in an amazing setting. Sadly, what we all want to forget is the main food courses, the meat was stringy at best and nobody enjoyed the main meal. Perhaps it’s one of those places you have drinks and ‘bites’ and then move out to a restaurant somewhere else. On that basis only would I go back.
Over the last few decades, I’ve attempted access to this church about six times. On google maps, it says closing at 4 pm. This time I’ve cracked it. With my driver Lucky we visit the church and find all three gates are chained up. It’s 3.30 pm. I’m getting frustrated. After closer investigation, Lucky establishes that one entrance has a chain around its two gates. He pulls on the chain to find there is no padlock.
We are in!
The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 266:
“Never underestimate people around you, find out what they are good at.”
We are in the churchyard but there is nobody about, although there are lots of tombstones and bodies well decomposed no doubt.
I’m shouting “hello! hello!”
Ultimately a chap comes out of what I assume is the caretaker’s little house. Looks like he has just gotten out of the shower but has shorts on… Thank God.
This church in Pettah was built in 1757, the first Protestant church on the island. I’m told its name comes from wolfs in the dale. There were no wolfs, just wild dogs. The Dutch Reform Church was founded by the VOC, i.e the Dutch East India Company. The hill site was previously the site of a Portuguese Church but was destroyed by the Dutch.
“Thought we were all Christians”
We get into the church and the sight is quite amazing, with a dominating carved wooden pulpit, but there is no altar. Wall plaques are everywhere and 37 tombstones form part of the floor, some are ornately carved and are 4 feet by 6 feet. This is a big church shaped like a plus sign and a footprint and is 100 feet high at its highest. A thousand of people can gather in this church. The walls they say are 5 feet thick.
Plastered around the walls are numerous plaques. One section is dedicated to all the reverends who served in the church over the centuries. The elite of this city who belonged to the church back in the day are buried here as well, some being Dutch Governors of Ceylon.
It’s likely one of the oldest churches still having regular services on the island and with an active congregation. They have services in three languages.
As we finish our amazing tour we step out to check out the graves and tombstones outside, many along the church walls but no sign of a crypt.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 277:
Visit someplace you haven’t been to or do something different every day. At worst read an article on a new subject.
I’m planning to go back and participate in the 10.30 am Sunday service. Not sure I will get Jezzabel there, she says she is a free thinker, perhaps a non-believer.
This church is one of the many religious buildings in Pettah, and we managed to visit another 5 this week. More scriptures from the Pome to follow!
For years now our favourite Japanese restaurant in Colombo has been Zen just at the end of Rosmead Place. That view is unlikely to change in the foreseeable future. What makes it the best for us can be summed up in one sentence.
“Great food, service and environment at acceptable pricing while always being consistent and having BYOB.”
Zylan opened in Dec 2011. Originally it was a boutique hotel with 10 rooms. The Zen Japanese restaurant has been operating since end of 2014, creating an oasis in the heart of the city where the hotel guests and diners can feel pampered and chilled. It’s a different experience from staying/ dining at big hotels.
So, we are here again, with our guide as always, “Sunil the jacket”.
Seven of us sit on roof terrace amongst the trees with a whispering light breeze creating a magic temperature. We always prefer the bar terrace though you can go up to another level but that’s for romantic couples. There are less than ten tables on our favourite terrace and if like us you are a big group worth booking well ahead. A large group on the top terrace is too tight.
When we go, we normally ask the manager to select the dishes and he always adds something new and keeps it flowing. Today however, is Sunil’s choice,
Starter
Prawn tempura
Gyoza chicken
Tuna and salmon sashimi
Makis
Volcano salmon
Zen Signature Maki Assortment
Salads
Wakame seaweed – A new dish for me and very succulent
Mains
Garlic fried rice
Chicken teriyaki – Not sure this is the house speciality but it’s always on our list when we visit
Chili crab meat and prawn don
Stir Fried Mix vegetables
We delight our taste buds as the plates roll through the night. At 12,000 per couple, it’s great value and the service is exceptional.
The building also gives you that zen feel with a walkway that takes you to infinity and back (mirror at the end) the open white style hotel is relaxing to the eye, comforting to the mind and easy to navigate. Though we normally walk up a long staircase with three doggy last steps my advice to most people, especially when leaving the roof top delight under the influence of booze … is TAKE THE LIFT.
The first time we visited this restaurant we ordered an excessive amount of duck and got a hefty bill. We were seated by the entrance where people were passing, watching us eat. We had a bit of a barney with the manager. She left the company a short while later.
Three years on and we go back.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule 277:
“Always give a restaurant a second chance. It could become a favourite.”
We arrive on this second visit at 9 PM and head out after a tasty meal by 10 PM. Quick Service. There is only one other table occupied which is next to us. This is separated by a curtain but we can hear those on the other side of it, talking quite loudly. If you have only a few tables occupied in your restaurant, why sit two groups adjacent to each other? The lighting above is excessive and over-designed.
Highlights
We order seven dishes. The steamed pork bun makes an excellent starter, and the eggplant is tasty and juicy. The main dishes include a seafood rice dish and a fine shrimp noodle, both are great and in ample quantities.
The noise from our neighbours and the loud aircon are not enough to detract us from an excellent meal at 13,738 rupees, or 40$ – for four people which is great value! If we had ordered wine the meal would be 50 % more. My suggestion to Softlogic (the franchise holder for Crystal Jade in Sri Lanka) is they adopt a BYOB (Bring your own bottle) proactive approach on wine for this restaurant and any others they manage.
The Whinging Pome Random Rule No. 252:
“Restaurants run by accountants normally have excessive mark ups on wine, to create change drink beer or tell the manager about BYOB.”
We will revisit again and perhaps go to a movie; when the next tom cruise movie is now showing here at One Galle Face Mall.
